Mister Bill - ..your source for innovative ECM solutions....
Fig. 1
Mounting Screws
Fig. 2
Edge Card Connector
Fig. 3
Heat Sink
Fig. 4
Side Rails Removed
Fig. 5
HAM mounted
Fig. 6
Insulators
Fig. 7
Cutting Guide
Fig. 8
Insulators
Fig. 9
Finished
..adapt your 7747 or 8746 ECM to the stock edge card type connector...

Bill Hitchcock
Installation

IMPORTANT: Perform the HAM installation procedure only on an anti-static work surface or damage to ECM components may result!

  • 1 Remove the 6 housing screws and remove the ECM mainboard from the housing covers.

  • 2 Turn the ECM mainboard upside-down and remove the two harness connector mounting screws (See Fig 1). Also some ECMs have two additional mounting screws on the top side of the connector).

  • 3 De-solder the harness connector pins from the mainboard of the ECM. TAKE YOUR TIME! Patience is a MUST here.
    The pads on the main board are very fragile and easily damaged.
    When a pin is successfully de-soldered it should be able to move around inside the thru-hole in the PCB with a pair of tweezers or needlenose pliers, with enough movement to be visible.

  • 4 Once all of the harness connector pins have been de-soldered, a hobby knife may be needed to cut around the base of the connector where it sits on the mainboard to cut through the original clear protective film.
    Once the connector is loose it may be removed from the mainboard as in Fig. 2.

  • 5 The power transistors (Q1, Q3, Q9, Q10) attached to the chassis rail heat-sink must be detached from the rail(NOT from the board!).
    Remove the two plastic hold-down bracket mounting screws Fig. 3.
    Once again a hobby knife may be needed to cut through the clear protective film to get the plastic hold-down bracket off.
    Once the hold-down bracket is removed then the tabs of the power transistors must be separated from the chassis rail heat-sink, again use a hobby knife and trim the clear film from around where the transistor tabs come into contact with the chassis rail.
    Don't worry about the gray insulator material, that will be replaced. After trimming around the transistor tabs, use the hobby knife to GENTLY pry the transistor tabs away from the chassis rail.

  • 6 Once the 4 transistor tabs have been separated from the chassis rail heat-sink then remove the 6 mounting screws attaching the chassis rails to the main board and EPROM/CALPAK daughter board (two screws in front on bottom, two in rear on top and two in rear on bottom), and remove the chassis rails (See Fig. 4).

  • 7 The HAM board is now mounted to the chassis rails, as shown in Fig. 5. The two tabs for mounting the HAM board must be tapped either with a 6-32 tap or with a 6-32 self-tapping screw (The flat-head phillips screws supplied are not self-tapping screws.).
    Using the supplied 1/4" nylon spacers, mount the HAM board to the BOTTOM of the unused ECM rail tabs as shown in Fig. 6, and tighten the mounting screws.
    Note: the tapered head of the supplied mounting screws will correctly position the HAM board within the chassis rails.
    The supplied 6-32 lock-nuts may be used to further secure the mounting screws to the mounting tab.

  • 8 Attach the provided adhesive-backed thermal insulators to the back of the 4 power transistors as shown in Fig. 6. Note: DO NOT substitute these insulators with something else unless substituted with a known thermally conductive material, or the power transistors might overheat!

  • 9 Re-attach the chassis rails to the mainboard and EPROM/CALPAK daughter board with the 6 mounting screws removed in step 6.

  • 10 Re-assemble the power transistor plastic hold-down bracket and install the two hold-down bracket screws.
    It is recommended to use an ohm-meter and verify that there is no electrical connection between any of the 4 power transistor tabs and the chassis of the ECM.
    There MUST NOT be an electrical connection between any of the transistor tabs and the chassis rail of the ECM!

  • 11 The opening in the upper and lower housings must be widened to accommodate the HAM board.
    Set the HAM/mainboard assembly in the lower half of the housing and use the HAM board as a guide (See Fig. 7).
    Add an extra 1/8" to each side to allow for connector clearance.
    Using a hacksaw trim the necessary material only down to the bottom of the opening in the housing.
    Using the bottom housing half as a guide, do the same thing for the upper housing half.

  • 12 Set the HAM/mainboard assembly fully into the lower half of the ECM housing.
    Check that the HAM board sits parallel to the ECM housing.
    If not an extra nylon washer (provided) may be installed between the 1/4" spacer and the chassis rail mounting tab (usually on the right side as viewed from the front).

  • 13 Now it's time to make the electrical connections between the HAM board and the ECM mainboard.
    Remove the HAM/mainboard assembly from the ECM housing if it isn't already.
    Place a piece of scotch tape (or equivalent) across the original connector thru-holes on the bottom side of the ECM main board to prevent the individual pins from falling through (it's best to apply the tape to the line of surface-mount capacitors/resistors outlining the connector thru-holes, leaving a slight gap between the surface of the board and the tape itself).
    Turn the assembly over and one at a time insert the provided "pins" through each connector thru-hole: A1-A12, C1-C16, B1-B12, and D1-D16 (do the A and C rows first, in case you need to reach between the two boards with a pair of tweezers to get the pin through the ECM mainboard).
    When fully inserted each "pin" should go through both boards and rest on the piece of tape on the bottom of the mainboard). Refer to Fig 8.

  • 14 Make sure that all pins are through each corresponding thru-hole in the main board (don't turn the assembly over or the pins will fall out!),
    Then solder each pin to the HAM board (don't trim the pins' excess just yet).
    Once each pin has been soldered to the HAM board then the assembly may be flipped over and the pins soldered to the main board.
    Hint: apply a piece of tape over the ends of the pins on the HAM board, as the heat from the soldering iron may melt the solder in the HAM board, in which case the pin could fall out.
    Once all pins have been soldered on both ends, go ahead and trim the excess from the HAM board end of the pins.

  • 15 Serial cable: P1 is a 2-row 10 pin header for sending RS232 translated serial data to a PC for WINALDL compatibility.
    A DB9 female connector assembly is provided for this use.
    Only two wires are used for this feature, pins 2 and 5 of P1 and of the DB9 connector (run Pin 2 of P1 to pin 2 of the DB9...and pin 5 to pin 5).
    The two wires may be soldered directly into pins 2 and 5 of P1, or the user may elect to use a 2-row straight pin header/connector assembly (not provided).
    If the wires are soldered directly to the board, it is recommended to tie-wrap the wires to the 1/4" nylon HAM mounting spacer for strain relief.
    Use at least 4" of wire to allow enough room for the DB9 to "hang" from the opening in the ECM.

  • 16 The HAM/mainboard assembly may now be re-installed into the ECM housing, and should look like Fig. 9. (Depending on whether or not the DB9 connector was added).